>Here's a really mean method from Linda Colflesh (_Making Friends_),
> if you know which individual puppy they're going to take. It's preferable
> that the pup be in its fear period, so if they're still under 10 weeks you
>could try it. Take the pup out for a wander and approach the road. As the
>puppy crosses the curb or shoulder to enter the road, scream and cry
>in "fear." Snatch up the puppy and run to "safety," where you comfort and
>praise it. Colflesh advises really laying it on to terrify the pup, and in
>order to terrify the reader ;-) she suggests imagining the puppy crushed
>and dead in the road.
Years ago, and I don't recall the age of the pups so they could of been in
the primary fear imprint period, I worked with the first litter of boxer
pups we had, I would let them out into the (fenced) yard to play but in the
late evening I would open the driveway gate for my husband to come home.
With 3 small children and 9 puppies it got a little hectic watching all of
them but I did notice that a few of the bolder pups would notice the open
gate and start to go towards it. This is what I did and it took only 2 x
and they NEVER went close to the open gate again -- I would turn out, take a
couple hands full of driveway rocks and go hind behind part of the wood
fence at the gate opening. As this group of pups approached the gate I
would jump out screaming, waving my arms, stomping my feet and threw the
rocks at them. They freaked, yipped and ran for safety. I stopped and hid
again. After 5 or so minutes they cautiously came back and looked at that
open gate again, I repeated my performance and they never tried it again.
This method has worked for various students over the years for dogs that
tend to jump a fence -- if there is some place to hide on the other side of
the fence (large bush, tree etc) and the dog is consistant at jumping the
same spot which many are. Someone goes out and hides BEFORE the dog is
turned out. Try to jump out and frighten the dog BEFORE it is over the
fence, once it's over who knows where it might run.
>the pasture again. Maybe the visible boundary made the diference to
>this dog. It's important that the invisible "fence" be thought of as a
> training device rather than a real fence, and an unconfined dog always has
I've had students that have very good experiences with the invisible
fencing, one sent the collar back to the company and they intensified the
shock since the normal was not enough. Keep in mind that this will not
protect the dog from stray dogs that come onto the property.