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SKIVT-L  January 2000, Week 4

SKIVT-L January 2000, Week 4

Subject:

La escoba de dios on the Rock Pile

From:

Nick Malczyk <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:32:29 EST

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (97 lines)

The Patagonians call it la escoba de dios, the broom of God.  These are the
hellacious winds that scream through Patagonia often lasting upwards of a
month at a time, much to the dismay of snowcave bound climbers.  I
experienced the broom of God this past Saturday, only it was on our local
rock pile - Mt. Washington.  I had been hoping for some nasty weather so I
could practice ice climbing in full winter conditions but it's like they
say, This is what you want, This is what you get.

I could tell I was in for an interesting day as I drove past Wildcat and
looked up at the Pile.  Every mountain in the area was capped by lenticular
clouds - ominous signs of high winds and vicious weather.  As I stepped out
of the car I was greeted by gusty winds and -30 windchills.  Half an hour
later I was on the trail and I could tell right away that I wasn't going to
meet my objective of soloing two gullies in Huntington Ravine.  The trail
was covered in new windblown drifts of snow up to three feet deep in places.
  Although I wouldn't have to break trail it still wasn't going to be easy.

I knew this particular climb was going to be different from many of the
other winter ascents I've made of the peak before I even hit the Huntington
Ravine fire road.  Normally as I hike up I strip down to one layer to stay
cool while my feet sweat in my leather mountaineering boots.  Instead I was
barely keeping ahead of the cold with three layers on and my feet never
really warmed up.  Besides, the wind was really whipping along.  I was still
below 4,000 feet and the winds were at a sustained 40-50 mph or so.

So I headed up the fire road and came across a climber who was already
coming down due to high winds.  Can't be that bad, I thought.  I've been on
the summit several times with winds in the 70's or so.  As I kept hiking
along I began thinking more about a little note included in the avalanche
report that said something like "Beware that there is an extreme cold
weather advisory today.  A situation that leads to immobility may be life
threatening."  Then it started to weigh on me. Now I've soloed every gully
in the ravine, most in adverse winter conditions, but the day had the looks
of something I hadn't seen before in my winter travels.  So I turned around
and headed back to the Lion's Head winter trail with the intention of
bagging the summit without any technical climbing.

For those of you who haven't climbed the winter trail, it's a real gem.
It's tucked into beautiful evergreens and it's quite steep, requiring the
use of crampons and ice axe.  It's never so steep to require a rope but it
does demand your full attention.  So I headed up and passed a few groups of
guided clients from the IMCS and EMS climbing schools.  As I neared treeline
I ran into another solo hiker I'd talked to earlier in the day.  He was
turning around, said he'd poked his head up above the trees and nearly got
blown off.  Can't really be that bad, I thought once again.  But at this
point I could tell it was going to get very interesting up there since
everybody had been turning around.  And it was.

Treeline on the winter route is very distinct.  One minute you're sheltered
by the trees, the next minute your ass is swingin' in the breeze.  I was
stunned by what I was experiencing.  Like I said, I've experienced hurricane
force winds several times in the past on this mountain, but these winds were
stronger than anything else I'd ever seen before and I was just emerging
from treeline.  Within a few minutes I was knocked off my feet for the first
of several dozen times.  Walking up the trail was like trying to walk
upstream through a meltwater swollen river during flood stage, only harder.
I quickly found that leaning forward at a 45 degree angle and planting my
ice ax in the snow was just barely enough to move forward at a pace slower
than a crawl.

At this point I realized that there was virtually no chance of hitting the
summit but I still wanted to see if I could hike to the Lion's Head outcrop
as a consolation prize.  An hour later I crawled (literally) up the outcrop.
  I stood up and was greeted by winds even stronger than below that knocked
me over.  So I got back up and walked around a bit when all of a sudden a
big ass gust snuck up on me and smacked me like a bug.  It sent me flying
off my feet.  Twenty feet later a rock brought me a halt.  It was at this
point that my complacency towards the wind faded.  I had actually been
tossed by the wind.  Had the gust come from the north rather than the west
it may have blown my ass into Tuckerman's.  It was about time to go down but
I still wanted to see if I could make a little more progress.  So I turned
into the wind and started stepping forward... but I only got knocked over
again.  Tried it again but I couldn't force myself forward.  Oh well, I
turned around and got knocked over, again.  I got on my feet to head down
and got knocked down, again (are you noticing a pattern here?).  So I
crawled off Lion's Head.  Hey, it may have looked funny as I crawled on my
hands and knees down the trail but it was the only way to go without taking
to flight again.

Twenty minutes later I was back in the trees talking to a guide I'd climbed
with five years ago, reminiscing about a similar day we'd spent getting wind
blasted on The Pile.  So how bad was it up there?  I don't know the exact
figures but it was something like this, -20 F, 90+ mph winds, -90 F wind
chill.  But when you're in the middle of weather like that the numbers
somehow seem to lose all meaning while being able to count to ten with your
fingers or toes takes on a whole new importance.

Nick

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