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SKIVT-L  April 2000, Week 1

SKIVT-L April 2000, Week 1

Subject:

Re: New Zealand skiing

From:

Geoff Devine <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Fri, 7 Apr 2000 18:30:26 -0400

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (144 lines)

I started to put up a web site about my New Zealand trip
last fall but lost interest in the project about half
way through. Here's a quick summary for those thinking of
making the trip....

All the good skiing is in the Southern Alps on the South
Island. Christchurch is the major airport.

Many of the ski fields make the facilities at MRG look
like McSkiing. The club fields have rope tows. There are
a few high speed McBFLs but T-Bars, Pomas, and fixed grip
chairs are much more common. The bigger areas have
snowmaking and grooming.

There is no such thing as ski-in/ski-out. Mostly, you
stay in a town down in the flats and drive or bus a half
hour to the ski hill.

The resorts are all above the tree line. The mountains
are about 4000' of verts but only the top 2000' are snow
covered. All the mountains have hairy switchback access
roads to get from the flats to the base of the lifts.
When there's good snow, you can ski partway down the
access road and take a shuttle back up the hill. I was
there for spring skiing so I missed that experience.

I rented a Honda CR-V from Avis for 3 weeks. I think it
was about $1000 including mandatory insurance. You could
get by with the bus and shuttle service but you'd miss out
on some spectacular countryside.

Lift tickets in New Zealand are an Alta-like $30 dollars
at the bigger ski areas and much cheaper at the smaller
ski fields. Lodging is very inexpensive. The best place
in town is sub-$100 and there are lots of $30 rooms.

I thought the best lift serviced ski areas were Treble
Cone and Mt. Hutt.

Mt. Hutt: About an hour and a half from the major (for
NZ) city of Christchurch. Christchurch has the British
feel of a small Vancouver. Methven is the bedroom town
for Mt. Hutt. Methven is a very sleepy place by US
destination resort standards but it's more than adequate.
It has some decent pubs and some ok dining. I started out
staying at the best hotel in town called the Sovereign
(about $75 US per night) but ended up staying with a
pinner named Jamie Allen and his Japanese wife Shino who
I met up on the hill. Great people with adorable
children. I think their best room with breakfast and
a very nice Japanese dinner was about $45. They mostly
cater to Japanese guests but I was quite happy being the
token anglo. The web site for that lodge is
http://www.fishandhunt.co.nz
The highlights at Mt. Hutt are the steep Towers chutes and
the South Face off the back side. Access is by a triple
chair to a T-Bar with a big traverse at the top of the
T-Bar to get to the goods. Here's a photo of it.
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Meadows/5203/246a_013.jpg


From Mt. Hutt, I drove down to Lake Ohau, stayed at the
Lake Ohau Lodge, and skied at their little T-Bar serviced
ski field. Great dinner, incredible view of the lake from
my new Scandinavian-style hotel room, and a powder day to
boot! I think the lodging, dinner, breakfast, and lift
ticket was about $80.

From Ohau, I drove down to Queenstown to sample Coronet
Peak and The Remarkables. Queenstown is a legitimate
resort town on a lake with about 10 blocks of shops,
restaurants, bars... I stayed in a full service hotel
called the Queenstown Parkroyal.
Coronet Peak is the most modern of the ski resorts. It
has a high speed quad running up the front and mostly
intermediate and low-expert terrain underneath. With a
little hike and traverse, you can get to some interesting
bowl skiing and a few chutes from the top of that lift.
Coronet Peak even has a paved access road... the only one
in the country. I caught The Remarkables on a cloudy day
after all the snow had melted off the interesting hike-to
chutes. Midwinter in a good snow year, this place could
be entertaining for a few days. I was stuck on the
McTrails and was bored silly. I also did a day of
heli-skiing with Harris Mountain Heli-Ski. I'm hooked!

From Queenstown, I drove an hour and a half up to Wanaka
and skied Treble Cone for 4 days. Treble Cone has a high
speed 6-pack running up the front with advanced skiing
underneath. Above that, there's a fixed grip double to a
T-Bar to a snowcat that services very interesting terrain.
Lots of steep chutes and natural half pipes. Wanaka is a
smallish resort town. It's slightly bigger than Methven
but sleepy compared to Queenstown.

Costs:
I got there on frequent flier miles. It's very much
off-season there so I'm sure there are inexpensive tickets
to be had. I spent about $1000 per week including my
rental car. Things were inexpensive enough that I usually
stayed in the better places.

General orientation:
From the US, you can only fly to Auckland on the North
Island and then transfer down to Christchurch or
Queenstown. I flew to Sydney and stayed there for a
couple of days and did the 3 hour flight over to
Christchurch. Christchurch to Queenstown is about 6 hours
by car.

Factoids:
The snow can be iffy. It's very close to the ocean so they
get high winds and can get the evil R word.
The winds are extreme enough that most resorts run T-Bars
at the top.
Great local reebs. Even better wine.
Meat Pies are the local fast food. Yummm!
Resorts attract roughly 25% Japanese, 25% Australians,
10% other. There are only a million people on the South
Island so there aren't that many local skiers.
The Alpine Parrot, the Kia, is really cool. They'll help
you drink your coffee and eat your lunch if you let them.
Brits are called Poms. Derivation thought to be
Immigrant->Pomegranate->Poms.
Yanks are called Seppos. Derivation thought to be
Stupid Yanks->Septic Tanks->Seppos.

Things I'd do differently next time:
I went mid-September to early October. They were already
deep into spring skiing. I love skiing in the tanorama
but Mid-July would be a better time to go.
I'd try to get some heli-skiing in at Mt. Cook and
probably skip Ohau.
I went for 3 weeks. I wish I'd been there a little longer
so I could have had more sightseeing and less ski frenzy.
It's an incredibly beautiful place and I feel like I
didn't see enough of it. If I only had 10 days or so,
I'd probably opt to fly into Queenstown and skip Mt Hutt.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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