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SKIVT-L  April 2001, Week 4

SKIVT-L April 2001, Week 4

Subject:

Blown away in western Newfoundland (Apr. 18-22)

From:

Jim Crowley <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Sat, 28 Apr 2001 20:49:31 -0200

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (236 lines)

There was recent discussion on SKIVT-L about whether there is a lack of
true backcountry skiing in the East. As Leigh pointed out, there are miles
of wilderness in places like Quebec and Newfoundland. On that note, I'm
posting this long account of my ski trip last week to western Newfoundland,
where we were blown out of the Blow Me Downs, but treated to a delicious
corn feast on the Tablelands!

For those wishing to skip the text and get to the real action, you can look
at the 40 photos I put on my yahoo site:

http://ca.y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/switzer_crowley

After looking at the first page with 16 photos, make sure you click on a
button at the bottom to get to the next pages. The photos are listed
chronologically, with some of the best images being near the end.

DAY 1
I drove 7 hours across the island on April 18 before picking up Bill (from
Lake Elmore, VT) at the Deer Lake airport and continuing an hour south,
through Corner Brook, to the Blow Me Down Mountains. I had never been to
the Blow Me Downs, and Bill had only been there once in the summer a few
years ago.

The Blow Me Downs rise 2000 feet above a fjord and extend southward for
many miles. They are nearly devoid of vegetation due to the rock types and
the harsh weather. The broad, flat mountain tops are flanked by steep bowls
and gullies. A highway passes between the fjord and the mountains and there
are numerous villages along the coast. It's an easy 2-3 km ski along the
base of the mountains to the first skiable bowls and gullies. This superb
highway access, located an hour from a major airport, gives the Blow Me
Downs a reputation for having some of the best, most accessible backcountry
skiing in the East. It is the home of the only eastern cat skiing
operation, Blomidon Cat Skiing:

http://www.catskiing.net/

It had been a nice day, but the clouds were thickening and the weather
forecast was calling for a gale to begin soon. Our only two objectives that
evening were to scope out some skiable lines in the bowls and gullies from
the highway, and to find a tent site that was protected from the wind. We
could see that the mountainsides were steep and amply covered in snow. So
much snow that we would be able to ski directly from the parking lot that
lies nearly at sea level. Finding a protected camping site was more
troublesome. A gravel pit near the parking lot had a great view, but it was
completely open to the southwesterlies blowing over the treeless ground. A
rock quarry located a couple kilometres down the highway was tucked into a
1000 foot high cliff that offered our tent (a 4-season Mountain Equipment
Co-op brand) some protection.

The tent was set up just as the wet snow and rain began. We tried cooking
under a tarp attached to the car, but we quickly realized this was
fruitless in the strong winds and instead opted to cook in the tent
vestibule. Before crawling in our sleeping bags, we piled more boulders on
the guy lines of the tent (luckily, there was no shortage of rocks in the
quarry). Sleep came in fits and starts. Just as I would nod off, another
gust of wind would rattle the tent and awaken me. At 2 a.m., the wind
increased and turned to northwesterly, which changed our formerly sheltered
location into one that was vulnerable to gusts coming off the fjord. These
gusts lifted the fly off the tent and buffeted us in our sleeping bags. As
I was upwind of Bill, I was constantly being pushed into him. The roar from
the gusts could be heard well before they hit us. They would hit with full
force for about 10 seconds, then abate into 30-60 seconds of calm before
the next gust. The force of the impending gust could be predicted by the
time that expired between first hearing the distant roar and feeling it hit
the tent. A minor gust had a short roar, whereas a whopper had a long roar.
At 4 a.m., we were hit by a couple huge blasts that dislodged the piles of
boulders holding down the guy lines. We scrambled out of the tent between
gusts to assess the damage and keep the tent in place, desperately holding
on so it wouldn't blow away. When the next gust took all of our strength to
keep the tent down, I decided that we should take out the poles between
gusts and lie upon it until it could safely be transferred to the car.
Luckily, we got the poles out without snapping any and then quickly rolled
up the tent and fly and stuffed them in the car. The rest of the sleepless
night was spent in a rocking car. We estimated that peak gusts were 120
km/h (70 mph). The only things we lost were a water bottle and a bowl. It
could have been much worse, perhaps horrible, if we hadn't been camping
next to a car. I'm glad to now be aware of the limitations of my tent.

DAY 2
At daybreak the snow stopped and the clouds started lifting, so we searched
for a sheltered spot where we could eat breakfast and change into our ski
clothes. The best place was on the dock in Frenchman's Cove, which was
buzzing with activity because it was opening day of the lobster season. To
the lobstermen who were preparing to head out onto the choppy waters, we
must have been quite a spectacle with our plastic boots, skis, and poles;
one of them asked "Are you boys going water skiing?"

Just as we reached the parking lot, the clouds lowered and the snow began
again. We started skinning along the base of the steep terrain, hoping to
reach a bowl that we saw the previous evening that might offer protection
from the wind. At the 2 km point, the wet snow was soaking into our clothes
and the wind was persisting. After being knocked to the ground for the
third  time, we decided to cut our losses by hiking up a short slope,
making a couple token turns down it, and returning to the car. It was
certainly awesome to feel the force of Mother Nature, finding out why these
mountains are called the Blow Me Downs, but otherwise this trip had not
started out well. We were hopeful that our luck would change after picking
up Paul (from North Bay, ON) at the Deer Lake airport that evening and
spending the rest of our trip to the north, in Gros Morne National Park.

DAY 3
Conditions improved dramatically overnight: the wind died, the temperature
dropped, and the sky cleared. We drove a half hour to Wiltondale, on the
edge of Gros Morne National Park, to pick up the key to a backcountry
chalet operated by Parks Canada. I've been skiing twice in Gros Morne, but
the others (who had not skied here) were pleased to see the deep snow
covering steep mountains as we drove into the Park and proceeded along the
southern shore of Bonne Bay to the Tablelands. The Tablelands are composed
of rocks similar to those in the Blow Me Downs, and therefore are also
treeless and with steep sides. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1987 because its rocks display a rare record of plate tectonic
processes, and because of its spectacular scenery, with alpine plateau,
fjords, glacial valleys, sheer cliffs, and waterfalls.

We loaded our packs with three days worth of food and began the 8 km trip
into the Pic a Tenerife chalet. Other than a couple snowmobile tracks,
there were no signs of anybody else being up there recently. The route to
the chalet is generally slightly uphill as it skirts around the base of the
steepest slopes, climbing from 500 feet elevation at the parking lot to
1300 feet. We quickly ditched the skins upon discovering that skating or
scrambling was the quickest way to travel over the hard snow. A preview of
good things to come was found at the one downhill slope along the route. On
this south-facing slope, the icy surface had softened into corn that was
highly turnable, even with our heavy packs.

At the base of a wide, moderately steep slope located 3 km from the chalet,
we could not wait any longer to taste the corn, so we dropped our packs and
started hiking. The snow conditions were awesome. Temperatures were just a
few degrees above freezing, allowing the icy surface to soften ever so
slightly. Ice sheets cut away easily under the ski edge, with each turn
shattering the sheets and bringing pieces of ice down the slope in front of
us. The thousands of bits of glittering ice cascading down before me had a
mesmerizing effect that made it difficult to concentrate on turning on
these steep slopes. Wind-sifted powder that lay in pockets between the icy
areas remained dry while the corn softened underneath. It must have been
the right mixture of cool temps, dry air, and sunshine to allow for this
powder / corn combination, which I have only experienced once before in the
Chic Choc Mountains in 1995. What a delight!

After 3 runs on this slope we moved southward to a wide gully that I had
scoped out in March. The gully has 1200 feet of vertical at a pitch that
varies from 25-30 degrees at the bottom to 40-45 degrees at the top. Unlike
many of the other steep gullies on the Tablelands, this one is not overhung
by cornices. We had a superb run that started out steep and narrow, then
mellowed into a natural half-pipe that was fun to cut up, then finished
with a wide smooth snowfield. Unfortunately, the sun passed behind the
ridge at 4:30 p.m., putting the slopes in the shadow, returning them to
their frozen state until being reawaken by the sun the next morning.
Putting on the heavy packs and finshing off the last 3 km to the chalet was
a real chore, especially because it was uphill against a stiff wind.

Once at the Pic a Tenerife chalet, however, life was good. The 3-year-old
chalet has 900 square feet, a wood stove, stocked wood shed, 2 propane
stoves with ovens, propane lights, a complete set of cutlery and pans,
indoor chemical toilet (actually a bad idea because of the smell), 4
comfortable chairs, a sleeping loft for 12, 3 pairs of slippers, and lots
of windows with superb views. We quickly had the place warm enough that
jackets were not necessary.

For more info on the chalet:

http://parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/Parks/Newfoundland/Gros_morne/English/xski_hut_
e.htm

DAY 4
Overnight the wind changed from southerly to westerly. This change had the
effect of scouring the little bit of loose snow out of northerly aspects
and depositing it on easterly aspects. This was welcomed because we were
going to ski easterly aspects. Actually, this additional snow turned out to
be very helpful because the temperatures remained cool throughout the day,
only allowing the lower couple hundred feet of the slopes to soften into
corn, with the upper slopes presenting a couple inches of wind-sifted
powder atop a firm, but edgeable base. Our first goal was to get on top of
the Tablelands near the chalet for a nice view, and we were rewarded with
stunning views and nice turns on the return trip. We then headed back to
the same slopes skied on Day 3, finding that our tracks and boot steps had
been almost completely filled in by the wind-sifted snow overnight. The
rest of the day was spent arcing high speed turns and soaking in the
beautiful weather.

DAY 5
We were out of the chalet early with hopes of making some turns near the
parking lot, in Trout River bowl, before bringing Bill to the airport.
Overnight the wind died and early morning temperatures were much warmer
than the previous day. The corn was already soft on easterly aspects during
our trip out. Trout River bowl was in superb shape, with soft corn on the
bottom gully and boot-top wind-sifted powder higher up. We made 3 runs of
1000 feet vertical each before having to head to the airport.

SUMMARY
It's often difficult to get one sunny, not-too-windy day in Newfoundland,
let alone 3 in a row! We simply got lucky with the weather and snow
conditions, and took every advantage of them by skiing until exhaustion
each afternoon. The rare wind-sifted powder / corn snow combination was
awesome for turning.

In my opinion, the Blow Me Downs and Tablelands offer some of the best,
easy access backcountry skiing in the East. Highways pass right beneath the
best slopes and a major airport (Deer Lake, with daily direct flights from
Halifax and Toronto) is located less than an hour away. We skied 3 days on
the Tablelands and only touched a small part of the terrain. There are
numerous runs with vertical descents of 1000-1200 feet at 30-40 degrees,
but also lots of shallower runs with less vertical, especially near the Pic
a Tenerife chalet. There are numerous steep (40-50 degrees) gullies that
have probably never been skied, yet could be done under the right
conditions. There are also nice-looking runs with 1500 feet vertical on
Gros Morne Mtn. and Killdevil Mtn. The chalet is a gem that only appears to
be filled a couple weekends a winter when the local colleges use them in
their outdoor recreation courses.

One may ask why I am singing the praises of a place that is virtually
unknown to backcountry skiers outside of Newfoundland. It's because I'm not
concerned about it being over-run by skiers, as I spent 7 days there this
winter and didn't see a single other set of tracks that didn't belong to me
or my friends. Plus, a higher usage of the chalet could prompt Parks Canada
into keep it properly maintained in future years, and a greater skiing
presence on the Tablelands could prompt Parks Canada to enact (or enforce?)
regulations that restrict snowmobile usage on this UNESCO World Heritage
Site. I have no trouble with snowmobiles traveling next to the highway
between towns situated on either side of the Tablelands, but I think they
should be restricted from the mountainous terrain. I realize this is not a
popular sentiment amongst those living in towns surrounded by the Park.

***************************************************
Jim Crowley
Department of Earth Sciences
Memorial University of Newfoundland
St. John's, NF A1B 3X5  CANADA
(709) 737-3046
***************************************************

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March 2010, Week 1
February 2010, Week 4
February 2010, Week 3
February 2010, Week 2
February 2010, Week 1
January 2010, Week 5
January 2010, Week 4
January 2010, Week 3
January 2010, Week 2
January 2010, Week 1
December 2009, Week 5
December 2009, Week 4
December 2009, Week 3
December 2009, Week 2
December 2009, Week 1
November 2009, Week 5
November 2009, Week 4
November 2009, Week 3
November 2009, Week 2
November 2009, Week 1
October 2009, Week 5
October 2009, Week 4
October 2009, Week 3
October 2009, Week 2
October 2009, Week 1
September 2009, Week 5
September 2009, Week 4
September 2009, Week 3
September 2009, Week 2
September 2009, Week 1
August 2009, Week 5
August 2009, Week 4
August 2009, Week 3
August 2009, Week 2
August 2009, Week 1
July 2009, Week 5
July 2009, Week 4
July 2009, Week 3
July 2009, Week 2
July 2009, Week 1
June 2009, Week 5
June 2009, Week 4
June 2009, Week 3
June 2009, Week 2
June 2009, Week 1
May 2009, Week 5
May 2009, Week 4
May 2009, Week 3
May 2009, Week 2
May 2009, Week 1
April 2009, Week 5
April 2009, Week 4
April 2009, Week 3
April 2009, Week 2
April 2009, Week 1
March 2009, Week 5
March 2009, Week 4
March 2009, Week 3
March 2009, Week 2
March 2009, Week 1
February 2009, Week 4
February 2009, Week 3
February 2009, Week 2
February 2009, Week 1
January 2009, Week 5
January 2009, Week 4
January 2009, Week 3
January 2009, Week 2
January 2009, Week 1
December 2008, Week 5
December 2008, Week 4
December 2008, Week 3
December 2008, Week 2
December 2008, Week 1
November 2008, Week 5
November 2008, Week 4
November 2008, Week 3
November 2008, Week 2
November 2008, Week 1
October 2008, Week 5
October 2008, Week 4
October 2008, Week 3
October 2008, Week 2
October 2008, Week 1
September 2008, Week 5
September 2008, Week 4
September 2008, Week 3
September 2008, Week 2
September 2008, Week 1
August 2008, Week 5
August 2008, Week 4
August 2008, Week 3
August 2008, Week 2
August 2008, Week 1
July 2008, Week 5
July 2008, Week 4
July 2008, Week 3
July 2008, Week 2
July 2008, Week 1
June 2008, Week 5
June 2008, Week 4
June 2008, Week 3
June 2008, Week 2
June 2008, Week 1
May 2008, Week 5
May 2008, Week 4
May 2008, Week 3
May 2008, Week 2
May 2008, Week 1
April 2008, Week 5
April 2008, Week 4
April 2008, Week 3
April 2008, Week 2
April 2008, Week 1
March 2008, Week 5
March 2008, Week 4
March 2008, Week 3
March 2008, Week 2
March 2008, Week 1
February 2008, Week 5
February 2008, Week 4
February 2008, Week 3
February 2008, Week 2
February 2008, Week 1
January 2008, Week 5
January 2008, Week 4
January 2008, Week 3
January 2008, Week 2
January 2008, Week 1
December 2007, Week 5
December 2007, Week 4
December 2007, Week 3
December 2007, Week 2
December 2007, Week 1
November 2007, Week 5
November 2007, Week 4
November 2007, Week 3
November 2007, Week 2
November 2007, Week 1
October 2007, Week 5
October 2007, Week 4
October 2007, Week 3
October 2007, Week 2
October 2007, Week 1
September 2007, Week 5
September 2007, Week 4
September 2007, Week 3
September 2007, Week 2
September 2007, Week 1
August 2007, Week 5
August 2007, Week 4
August 2007, Week 3
August 2007, Week 2
August 2007, Week 1
July 2007, Week 5
July 2007, Week 4
July 2007, Week 3
July 2007, Week 2
July 2007, Week 1
June 2007, Week 5
June 2007, Week 4
June 2007, Week 3
June 2007, Week 2
June 2007, Week 1
May 2007, Week 5
May 2007, Week 4
May 2007, Week 3
May 2007, Week 2
May 2007, Week 1
April 2007, Week 5
April 2007, Week 4
April 2007, Week 3
April 2007, Week 2
April 2007, Week 1
March 2007, Week 5
March 2007, Week 4
March 2007, Week 3
March 2007, Week 2
March 2007, Week 1
February 2007, Week 4
February 2007, Week 3
February 2007, Week 2
February 2007, Week 1
January 2007, Week 5
January 2007, Week 4
January 2007, Week 3
January 2007, Week 2
January 2007, Week 1
December 2006, Week 5
December 2006, Week 4
December 2006, Week 3
December 2006, Week 2
December 2006, Week 1
November 2006, Week 5
November 2006, Week 4
November 2006, Week 3
November 2006, Week 2
November 2006, Week 1
October 2006, Week 5
October 2006, Week 4
October 2006, Week 3
October 2006, Week 2
October 2006, Week 1
September 2006, Week 5
September 2006, Week 4
September 2006, Week 3
September 2006, Week 2
September 2006, Week 1
August 2006, Week 5
August 2006, Week 4
August 2006, Week 3
August 2006, Week 2
August 2006, Week 1
July 2006, Week 5
July 2006, Week 4
July 2006, Week 3
July 2006, Week 2
July 2006, Week 1
June 2006, Week 5
June 2006, Week 4
June 2006, Week 3
June 2006, Week 2
June 2006, Week 1
May 2006, Week 5
May 2006, Week 4
May 2006, Week 3
May 2006, Week 2
May 2006, Week 1
April 2006, Week 5
April 2006, Week 4
April 2006, Week 3
April 2006, Week 2
April 2006, Week 1
March 2006, Week 5
March 2006, Week 4
March 2006, Week 3
March 2006, Week 2
March 2006, Week 1
February 2006, Week 4
February 2006, Week 3
February 2006, Week 2
February 2006, Week 1
January 2006, Week 5
January 2006, Week 4
January 2006, Week 3
January 2006, Week 2
January 2006, Week 1
December 2005, Week 5
December 2005, Week 4
December 2005, Week 3
December 2005, Week 2
December 2005, Week 1
November 2005, Week 5
November 2005, Week 4
November 2005, Week 3
November 2005, Week 2
November 2005, Week 1
October 2005, Week 5
October 2005, Week 4
October 2005, Week 3
October 2005, Week 2
October 2005, Week 1
September 2005, Week 5
September 2005, Week 4
September 2005, Week 3
September 2005, Week 2
September 2005, Week 1
August 2005, Week 5
August 2005, Week 4
August 2005, Week 3
August 2005, Week 2
August 2005, Week 1
July 2005, Week 5
July 2005, Week 4
July 2005, Week 3
July 2005, Week 2
July 2005, Week 1
June 2005, Week 5
June 2005, Week 4
June 2005, Week 3
June 2005, Week 2
June 2005, Week 1
May 2005, Week 5
May 2005, Week 4
May 2005, Week 3
May 2005, Week 2
May 2005, Week 1
April 2005, Week 5
April 2005, Week 4
April 2005, Week 3
April 2005, Week 2
April 2005, Week 1
March 2005, Week 5
March 2005, Week 4
March 2005, Week 3
March 2005, Week 2
March 2005, Week 1
February 2005, Week 4
February 2005, Week 3
February 2005, Week 2
February 2005, Week 1
January 2005, Week 5
January 2005, Week 4
January 2005, Week 3
January 2005, Week 2
January 2005, Week 1
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December 2004, Week 3
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November 2004, Week 4
November 2004, Week 3
November 2004, Week 2
November 2004, Week 1
October 2004, Week 5
October 2004, Week 4
October 2004, Week 3
October 2004, Week 2
October 2004, Week 1
September 2004, Week 5
September 2004, Week 4
September 2004, Week 3
September 2004, Week 2
September 2004, Week 1
August 2004, Week 5
August 2004, Week 4
August 2004, Week 3
August 2004, Week 2
August 2004, Week 1
July 2004, Week 5
July 2004, Week 4
July 2004, Week 3
July 2004, Week 2
July 2004, Week 1
June 2004, Week 5
June 2004, Week 4
June 2004, Week 3
June 2004, Week 2
June 2004, Week 1
May 2004, Week 5
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May 2004, Week 3
May 2004, Week 2
May 2004, Week 1
April 2004, Week 5
April 2004, Week 4
April 2004, Week 3
April 2004, Week 2
April 2004, Week 1
March 2004, Week 5
March 2004, Week 4
March 2004, Week 3
March 2004, Week 2
March 2004, Week 1
February 2004, Week 5
February 2004, Week 4
February 2004, Week 3
February 2004, Week 2
February 2004, Week 1
January 2004, Week 5
January 2004, Week 4
January 2004, Week 3
January 2004, Week 2
January 2004, Week 1
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December 2003, Week 4
December 2003, Week 3
December 2003, Week 2
December 2003, Week 1
November 2003, Week 5
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November 2003, Week 3
November 2003, Week 2
November 2003, Week 1
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October 2003, Week 3
October 2003, Week 2
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May 2003, Week 1
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April 2003, Week 2
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March 2003, Week 3
March 2003, Week 2
March 2003, Week 1
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February 2003, Week 3
February 2003, Week 2
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January 2003, Week 3
January 2003, Week 2
January 2003, Week 1
December 2002, Week 5
December 2002, Week 4
December 2002, Week 3
December 2002, Week 2
December 2002, Week 1
November 2002, Week 5
November 2002, Week 4
November 2002, Week 3
November 2002, Week 2
November 2002, Week 1
October 2002, Week 5
October 2002, Week 4
October 2002, Week 3
October 2002, Week 2
October 2002, Week 1
September 2002, Week 5
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September 2002, Week 3
September 2002, Week 2
September 2002, Week 1
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June 2002, Week 5
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May 2002, Week 1
April 2002, Week 5
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April 2002, Week 3
April 2002, Week 2
April 2002, Week 1
March 2002, Week 5
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March 2002, Week 3
March 2002, Week 2
March 2002, Week 1
February 2002, Week 4
February 2002, Week 3
February 2002, Week 2
February 2002, Week 1
January 2002, Week 5
January 2002, Week 4
January 2002, Week 3
January 2002, Week 2
January 2002, Week 1
December 2001, Week 5
December 2001, Week 4
December 2001, Week 3
December 2001, Week 2
December 2001, Week 1
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November 2001, Week 3
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November 2001, Week 1
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October 2001, Week 3
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October 2001, Week 1
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September 2001, Week 3
September 2001, Week 2
September 2001, Week 1
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August 2001, Week 3
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August 2001, Week 1
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July 2001, Week 4
July 2001, Week 3
July 2001, Week 2
July 2001, Week 1
June 2001, Week 5
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June 2001, Week 3
June 2001, Week 2
June 2001, Week 1
May 2001, Week 5
May 2001, Week 4
May 2001, Week 3
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May 2001, Week 1
April 2001, Week 5
April 2001, Week 4
April 2001, Week 3
April 2001, Week 2
April 2001, Week 1
March 2001, Week 5
March 2001, Week 4
March 2001, Week 3
March 2001, Week 2
March 2001, Week 1
February 2001, Week 4
February 2001, Week 3
February 2001, Week 2
February 2001, Week 1
January 2001, Week 5
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May 2000, Week 3
May 2000, Week 2
May 2000, Week 1
April 2000, Week 5
April 2000, Week 4
April 2000, Week 3
April 2000, Week 2
April 2000, Week 1
March 2000, Week 5
March 2000, Week 4
March 2000, Week 3
March 2000, Week 2
March 2000, Week 1
February 2000, Week 5
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February 2000, Week 1
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December 1999, Week 5
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December 1998, Week 5
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