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SKIVT-L  June 2003, Week 1

SKIVT-L June 2003, Week 1

Subject:

skiing on the eastern edge: Newfoundland (with video)

From:

Jim Crowley <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Fri, 6 Jun 2003 09:18:53 -0400

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (188 lines)

Arcing turns down snow-filled, treeless bowls and gullies within view of
lighthouses, icebergs, lobstermen checking their traps, deep fjords, and
caribou conjures up scenes of coastal British Columbia, Alaska, or Norway.
Yet, there is also a mixture of mountains and ocean at the eastern edge of
North America, on the island of Newfoundland. These Appalachians that jut into
the Atlantic are much smaller than mountains on the Pacific, the scenery is
not as spectacular (although still amazing in Gros Morne National Park, which
is also a UNESCO World Heritage site), and the ski season ends earlier (late
April or early May). However, whatever Newfoundland skiing lacks in those
categories is compensated by great corn snow, a wide variety of terrain, easy
access (nearby airport, and most skiing is within an hour hike from a road),
and an interesting geological setting (skiing on the Earthís mantle). There is
also an opportunity to experience the unique Newfoundland culture in villages
scattered along the coast.

If you want to skip the details of my report and simply view the scenery and
skiing, you can follow the link below to four videos taken during my trip in
late April with my buddy Aaron. The footage was shot with Aaronís digital
still camera in video mode, which produced short clips that have poor
resolution compared with those taken with actual digital video cameras. The
videos were taken in two locations in Gros Morne Park: on the Tablelands and
on Gros Morne mountain. For each location, there are two videos, one taken in
a vertical orientation and the other in a horizontal orientation. The videos
from the Tablelands are especially worth watching, in my opinion, because the
weather was superb.

http://www.mit.edu/people/jbaldwin/aaron/

Aaron and I flew from Boston to Deer Lake in western Newfoundland (via
Halifax). We bought our air tickets a week before Air Canada started a seat
sale and therefore missed out on some big savings. We could have driven from
Boston, but decided not to because itís a long 2 day drive and ferry ride. If
we had gotten the seat sale tickets, it would have been cheaper to fly. Clear
weather during the flight to Deer Lake afforded spectacular views of the Lewis
Hills and Blow-Me-Down ranges that lie south of Gros Morne. The bowls and
gullies were chock full of snow, most of it being very white, indicating that
the foot of snow that had fallen 5 days before had not yet melted back to
corn. I was a bit worried about the effects of this new snow on the corn
skiing, but less concerned when I noticed that the amount of new snow lessened
as we approached Deer Lake.

We picked up the rental car and spent the late afternoon driving looking at
the mountains and Bonne Bay, which was completely ice covered for the first
time in a decade. The great amount of sea ice on the west coast of
Newfoundland was due to a cold winter, and it also resulted in larger than
normal frozen waterfalls on the many cliffs. I guess that it was a great
winter for ice climbing. I noted that there was less snow in the gullies and
bowls than during my trip in 2001, but more than in 2002. I surmised from
watching the weather forecast all winter that this was a better snow season
than normal due to the cold temperatures. However, there was a torrential
rainstorm two weeks prior that closed the local ski area early by a week.
Effects of this rainstorm were seen in huge cornice pieces at the bottom of a
bowl and chunks of ice and snow that were heaved from brooks during the run-
off.

We spent that night and the following nights in the summer residence of a
friend whom I met when I lived in St. Johnís, the capital city of
Newfoundland, for a couple years. This house is located in the village of
Woody Point, which lies on Bonne Bay at the base of the Tablelands, a massive
mountain on the south side of Gros Morne Park that, as itís name implies, has
steep sides and a flat top. Woody Point is about an hour drive from Deer Lake.

The first morning was overcast, cold, and windy. I figured that the corn snow
probably would not soften, so decided it would be best to spend the day
touring to the top of Gros Morne mountain,  the highest point in the park and
second highest on the island. I had never skied or hiked on Gros Morne, but
had spent days staring at it from Woody Point, wondering whether the four
gullies on itís south face were skiable. The maps showed that the hiking
trail, the most popular in the park, ascended via gully #2 (gullies counted
from the west), so I suspected they werenít too steep.

Although Gros Morne mountain is a short distance from Woody Point across Bonne
Bay, itís an hour drive to get there. On the way we stopped at the bottom of
Killdevil Mtn. to check whether itís south face was skiable. Killdevil has the
greatest vertical drop of any skiable face that I am aware of in Newfoundland,
about 2000 vertical feet from the summit nearly to the sea, on a slope of 25-
35 degrees. The combination of low elevation at the bottom and southerly
aspect means that it rarely has enough snow to be skied. My best chance was in
2001, but I did not do it and have regretted it ever since. 2003 was a decent
snow year, but even now it was only barely skiable in the lower part. We
decided to put it off unless nothing else softened in the next couple days.

The lower 1000 feet on Gros Morne are ascended on a hiking trail below
treeline. There was just enough snow to get by, as we only had to remove our
skis in a couple places. At 1000 feet the trees stop and the steep part of the
mountain begins. We followed the hiking route to the summit up gully #2, over
frozen corn that was covered by patches of wind sifted snow. The wind was
howling in typical Newfoundland fashion and the temperature was below
freezing. We pushed on past the summit to get a view of Ten Mile Pond, one of
the half dozen or so fjords in the park that used to be connected with the
ocean. There was a spectacular view of the narrow pond enclosed by 2000 foot
high cliffs smeared with frozen waterfalls.

The skiing down the gully #2 was as expected, hard and fast on the frozen corn
but quite nice and soft on the pockets of wind-sifted powder. Unfortunately,
the former predominated over the latter. Gully #2 is a fine ski run at about
1300 vertical feet, but it has an inconsistent pitch and is not as steep as
gullies #3 and 4. We then hiked and skied down the relatively narrow and steep
gully #3. It also featured frozen corn with patches of wind-sifted powder. We
called it a day and began the ski down the trail with thoughts that we should
return to gullies #3 and 4 once the temps rose and snow softened.

The second morning broke cool, clear, and (most importantly) windless. This
was obviously the perfect day to introduce Aaron to the treasures on the
Tablelands, in particular the skiing on the east side in Southwest Gulch. We
made good time to the gulch over the open flat apron that rings the
Tablelands, arriving at the base of the ski slopes in an hour, just as the
snow began to soften. We quickly boot packed to the top of a slope with about
700 vertical feet at 30-35 degrees. We had a joyous run that featured wind-
sifted powder at the top that gave way to sun moistened powder and eventually
to corn on the exposures where the new snow was blown clear. The snowpack was
well-consolidated with little chance of avalanche. These were typical
Newfoundland spring conditions that resulted from an entire winter of the
snowpack being beaten into submission by wind, rain, and the occasion extended
thaw. A snowpack like this takes very little solar input to make for great
corn skiing. Iíve found from 3 years of experience that any new snow this time
of year gets blown off the exposed slopes and into nooks and crannies, where
it hangs around for days of above freezing temperatures as slightly moistened
wind-sifted powder as it slowly blends into the corn (or quickly when it
rains). The biggest danger associated with the snowpack this time of year is
cornice fall, which can be avoided by skiing on slopes not overhung by
cornices or not skiing on warm and rainy days. Wet slides also happen, but
again only on warm days.

For the second run we ascended the biggest gully in Southwest Gulch, a 1200
vertical foot run that is plenty wide and undulates between 25 and 35 degrees.
I gave Aaron the honor of making first tracks in the gully since I had thus
far claimed first tracks. He skied it flawlessly. That was followed by two
more runs on the first slope we skied, each starting from a higher point up in
the gullies that extend above the slope. The snow was superb, as the
temperature stayed close to freezing, the wind was calm, and the sun shone
brilliantly. The new wind-sifted snow remained dry and the corn was soft but
only in the uppermost inch or two. The return trip to the parking lot felt
magical as the sun set over the Tablelands and we skied passed Winterhouse
Brook Canyon.

The third morning was rather cool and windless, but overcast. Gullies #3 and 4
on Gros Morne were calling our names. As we approached the bottom of the
gullies a huge bull moose was spotted in a pocket of trees. We waited for him
to leave the trees so we could snap a photo, but he was too camera shy. We had
hoped to see caribou up here, as there were lots of tracks, but none were
sighted. The only other wildlife we saw were a pair of rock ptarmigans. The
sun was strong enough to soften the corn, thankfully. First run was made down
gully #3, the narrowest and straightest of the four gullies. Similar to the
previous day, the wind-sifted powder remained dry at the top, slightly
moistened in the middle, and the corn at the bottom that was softened in the
uppermost inch or twoÖgreat conditions. For the second run we tried gully #4.
It proved to be my favorite because it had captured the most wind-sifted snow
and had the longest sustained pitch of the gullies (1300 vertical feet). The
sun made intermittent appearances, but the clouds were welcomed because these
gullies face due south. After a long lunch in which Aaron did some repair work
on his ski bases (resulting from a close encounter with some rocks), we took
two more runs on gully #4 before calling it a day. The trip back down the
hiking trail proved to be more fun than two days prior because the snow was
soft and had melted out on the bridges and stairs.

Because the sky looked ominous on the fourth morning we decided to stay close
to the road by skiing in Wallace Brook Bowl (a.k.a. Trout River Bowl). This
bowl is the best known ski destination in Gros Morne Park because itís the
biggest bowl and the base is located a few hundred yards from the parking lot.
Due to its popularity, we were forced to cross other skiersí tracks for the
first time on the trip. The wind began to howl as we hiked up in to the bowl,
and the snow became progressively firmer. The first run was firm on the upper
half. The second run was mostly soft, but the wind had increased substantially
to the point where it hindered our turning. By the third run the wind was
deemed too strong so we packed it in for the day

The fifth morning brought high winds and rain. We spent the day reading and
watching the strong easterly wind blow all of the ice out of Bonne Bay. We had
hoped to ski on the morning of the fifth day before driving to the airport,
but the wind never let up as we sat in a rocking car in the parking lot and
watched the clouds zoom over the Tablelands.

We had decent weather on 4 of 5 days, which is about the best that can be
expected in a place known for foul weather. Two of those days were perfect in
which we got a lot of high quality turns. Aaron enjoyed his first trip to
Newfoundland and I had yet another great time on the island I grew quite fond
of during the few years I lived there. I found that Gros Morne mountain does
have some fine ski runs, and Iím hopeful that Killdevil will be in shape for
my next visit.

Jim

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