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SKIVT-L  October 2005, Week 5

SKIVT-L October 2005, Week 5

Subject:

Mount Washington 10/30/2005

From:

Ben Peters <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Mon, 31 Oct 2005 13:15:07 -0500

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (140 lines)

The day dawned bright, clear, and windy. I woke up (thankfully gaining
an extra hour of sleep due to daylight savings time, since I arrived
at Pinkham Notch at about 1 in the morning) and geared up for a solo
assault of Mount Washington. Opening the hatchback of my station
wagon, the wind felt a lot warmer than I thought it would. It was
going to be a good day.

There is snow all the way down to Pinkham Notch, but it is a little
thin a few places. I was torn about whether to hike or skin. I ended
up putting the skins on my skis, but a few hundred meters down the
trail I threw my skis on my pack, as negotiating rocks was too much of
a chore. The original route was the same one Allen Taylor and I used a
week ago: Old Jackson Road to Nelson Crag to the top. That time it had
been actively snowing out and we ended up having to break trail all
the way up Nelson Crag. Below treeline this meant cleaning off
virtually every short pine tree within a few feet of the trail or
being buried under loads of wet snow. I was optimistic this time that
the trail would already be broken and I would thus avoid this chore.
Unfortunately, when I arrived at the turn-off for Nelson Crag, it
looked even worse than the previous week. I quickly decided that I
wasn't in the mood for a wet slog through snow-laden pine trees, so I
hiked a little further on until I made it to the auto road.

I was able to make good time skinning up the autoroad. My legs still
aren't in great skinning form, but they felt stronger than last
weekend. It was a warm day out below treeline; the sun was shining
brightly and the snow was pleasantly soft. Everything changed as I
passed the 4000 foot marker and gradually emerged above treeline. For
those who haven't been up the autoroad before, as it rises above
treeline, it makes a spectacular turn with beautiful views into the
Great Gulf. I was taken aback by the sheer size of the Great Gulf; it
dwarfs all the other ravines on the mountain. The northern
Presidentials stood out tall and snow-covered, proudly jutting into
the baby blue sky. Ominously, plumes of snow feathered off of each of
their summits, looking not unlike some pictures I've seen of a similar
effect on Everest.

As I skinned higher, the cause of the plumes became clear: a brutal
wind was sweeping over the mountains. At first it was just a mild
inconvience, but then it began to get strong enough that maintaining
balance on skins became an issue. I stopped briefly to put on my shoft
shell, bigger mittons, and goggles to protect my eyes from the
sweeping snow. Eventually, between the 5 and 6 mile marks on the
Autoroad, skinning into the wind became too much of a chore, so I
opted to continue on foot. I figured that the wind was strong enough
to warrent cramp-ons. This proved to be a wise choice as I continued
upward. I joined up with the Nelson Crag trail again, and as I gained
the height of the ridgeline, the true force of the wind finally became
clear. The stronger gusts felt as if an invisible wall were hitting
me; I literally was thrown off my feet. I quickly put my poles on my
pack in favor of my ice axe. Progress was slow; I took a break and hid
behind every 5th cairn or so, desparately huddling in its meager
protection. The skis on my pack acted like a sail, straining at my
back, trying to break free and fly off into the void of Huntington
Ravine. I leaned into the wind, bent over at an unnatural angle with
only my ice axe for balance. When my mouth was perpendicular to the
wind I could hardly breathe because the wind rushed by so fast. My
cheeks ballooned out when I looked into it directly. It was
unquestionably the strongest wind I have ever been in, and numerous
times I found myself almost crawling to make headway against it.

I finally summited at about 12:45. It was a relief to step into the
shelter of the observatory building's open vestibule and finally get
out of the wind. I ate lunch quickly, anxious to head down. Based on
the wind, I imagined that the skiing would probably be fairly bad;
basically survival skiing until I got below treeline. My plan was to
skirt the lee side of the Nelson crag ridge, maybe get a few turns in
on the far eastern snowfield, then ski down the autoroad. I justified
this fairly lackluster ski run by resigning myself to the fact that
this day was fated to be more of a mountaineering day than a skiing
one (and a very exhilerating one at that). Anyway, it was with fairly
low expectations that I left the summit (again skiing from the top of
the snow-covered mound of rocks where the true summit lies).

I traversed through the parking lots over icy, wind-blown snow. I was
in the lee of the summit cone to some extent, so the wind was not
quite as bad as it had been going up. I began to follow the ridgeline
over to the autoroad, traversing slowly and watching for rocks. Then
something unexpected happened: the snow turned soft. I got excited.
Abandoning my previous plan, I dove into the snowfield. Conditions did
not disappoint. As I got further out of the wind, the snow got better.
At times it was a very soft chalk; lower down it was a chalky base
with a few inches of very soft, wind-blown powder on top (with no wind
crust). My turns were pure joy as I ate up the vertical. Before long I
had reached the flat alpine gardens. There was no question that I had
to ski that again. I ended up hiking and skiing the snowfields four
times. Each run was more of the same, but the same felt sooo good in
October. The views from the snowfield are amazing on a sunny day; you
really are well above treeline and the world stretches out in front of
you like a 3-d map. The snow was so soft and of such a perfect
consistancy that it would have been heaven any time of the year. Each
run went by in such a joyous blur that I got to the bottom wondering
how I had arrived so fast. Finally my legs and watch told me that I
should be headed down.

I was full of adrenaline from the amazing skiing, so I decided to try
something new. Rather than traverse uphill, into the wind, on the
Alpine Gardens trail, just to reach the autoroad and ski six miles
down a boring, flat cat-track, I decided to try my luck in Tuckerman
Ravine. On my last snowfield run, I began cutting over towards the
bottom, and traversed downhill to the lionshead ridge. I figured my
best bet, based on the windloading, was Right gully. This turned out
to be a good choice. It was remarkably well filled-in, and I dropped
in without hesitation. The snow was soft; almost springlike, a really
nice mashed-potato consistancy. It felt really good to ski something
steep again. I was able to continue on skis after the chute emptied
into the bowl. I carefully wound my way through lunch rocks and soon
arrived at the bottom of the bowl. Overall, the bowl is in really good
shape. Left gully looked really skiable, and right gully definitely
was. Chute was good up until right at the lip of the headwall. Center
headwall is still a cliff, but Lip is starting to develop a band of
snow that will be skiable at some point. Little headwall is still a
waterfall.

By this point, having made it to here on skis, I decided to go for a
top to bottom ski descent of washington (my second ever). Therefore, I
decided to attempt to ski the tuckerman ravine trail between the bowl
and Hermit lake. This proved difficult, requiring what I like to refer
to as "creative route finding" at times and a bit of side stepping. I
did eventually make it however, and soon found myself on Sherburne,
which was far better. Upper Sherburne is in great shape; there are a
few streams that still lack snow cover, but these can be stepped
across without removing skis. The last quarter of the trail or so was
a little less well covered, but by this point I was determined to ski
down to Pinkham notch, so I was able to successfully pick my way on
tiny bands of snow skirting streams and rocks. Finally I crossed the
two bridges and emerged, victorious, in the Pinkham Notch parking lot,
some 4000 vertical feet below the summit.

Overall a really great day of skiing and mountaineering. I wonder how
many other octobers it has been possible to ski mount washington top
to bottom without taking off one's skis??

-ben

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