I have found that air movement is best for drying. IE fans or dehumidifiers.
Seems like they are standard tools for the fast track contractor these days.
Ben Graham
On 12/11/08 8:23 PM, "Tim Yandow" <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
> Can someone explain to me how a Salamander can exacerbate moisture issues
> during dry out? Is this a problem with dense pack as well? What would be a
> better way to provide heat for drywall and painting after insulation
> installation than space heaters?
> Tim Yandow
>
>
>> The borates seemed to work fine in the cellulose - there was no
>> mold in the it. Moisture had condensed on the back of the
>> Typar. Too much moisture in the application, extra moisture
>> introduced by space heaters, interior walls left open too long
>> meaning to help it dry, winter conditions promoting
>> condensation, Typar creating issues? Any or all are options,
>> but no one seems to be able to pinpoint one cause or whether it
>> was a combination of all. NuWool was the brand and I understand
>> it is the good stuff. The installation installer has since sold
>> his business and vanished. The builder was one of the best in
>> the business. Walls were left open for several months (now one
>> reputable local installer is saying to close the walls in
>> within a week). Salamanders were used because no one said not
>> to. Probably a combination of a number of things except poor
>> construction. Lots of people chipped in to help fix the
>> problem, but it still cost the builder. Fortunately the
>> homeowner was understanding, but until it is established
>> exactly why it happened it is an experiment I don't intend to
>> repeat.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> Robert Riversong wrote: --- On Thu,
>> 12/11/08, William C Badger AIA wrote: Interesting
>> material. Has anyone in the group tried it and does anyone locally
>> install it? We tried damp applied cellulose in a new house a couple of
>> years ago with disastrous results. Black mold grew on the outside of the
>> plywood sheathing and the back side of the Typar house wrap. The siding
>> had to be stripped off and things dried out. A series of unusual
>> circumstances that created a perfect storm?
>> The mold on your plywood sheathing may have been encouraged by poor
>> installation practice or too quick a close-in of the walls, but likely
>> had other contributing factors. Kiln-dried lumber is
>> milled at 19% moisture content by weight and it takes a new house a full
>> year to completely dry to a stable level. Modern cellulose installation
>> techniques require very little added water, and the walls should always
>> be left open from 1 to 3 days following application.
>> Running salamander-type temporary construction heaters only puts more
>> moisture into the indoor environment. Cellulose has been successfully
>> installed in northern climates without a vapor barrier (as long as there
>> is good air sealing), and applying a plastic vapor barrier and closing in
>> the wall before dry-out will almost certainly create a mold problem.
>> The brand of cellulose, also, makes a big difference. Only
>> those, like National Fiber, who use EPA-certified fungicides can
>> guarantee no mold problems. If wall plate penetrations
>> in the top and bottom plates are not properly sealed, this could create a
>> significant source of moisture in the wall cavities. My
>> guess is that you had a "perfect storm" caused perhaps by poor quality
>> materials, poor installation technique, and inappropriate construction
>> practices. Don't blame the cellulose - there is no better insulation on
>> the market.
Those who give up freedom for safety, deserve neither.
Benjamin Franklin
__________________________________________________________
Ben Graham
www.naturaldesignbuild.us
Natural building/design services/workshops/consulting
Integrating Culture and Nature
802.454.1167
|
