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SKIVT-L  June 1999, Week 1

SKIVT-L June 1999, Week 1

Subject:

Selkirks 5/17 to 5/21 (Part 1)

From:

"John Crowley, Jr." <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:18:06 -0400

Content-Type:

TEXT/PLAIN

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

TEXT/PLAIN (157 lines)

"Subject: weather update
Hi Jr. - A cool and wet upcoming week for the Selkirks.  There will
probably
be accumulating snow during a couple days this week.  Hopefully the
weather will turn warmer by the weekend and into next week.  We're going
to have to be real careful out there.  I'm going on a fieldtrip to Mica
Creek on Thursday through Saturday, so let me know if you have any final
questions by Wednesday.  I'll scope out the snow situation in the high
ground near Mica.  Using my binoculars, I should be able to get a pretty
good idea of whether things are sliding or not.  Later, Jim."

That was an email message my brother sent me on May 10th, one week
before our scheduled helicopter airlift into the Selkirk Mountains of
British Columbia, Canada.  Up until this time, every plan we had made
regarding our foray into the mountains was positive.  I had a week off
before summer school.  There had been a record winter for snowfall and
many feet of snow would be on the ground.  I was able to able get a
flight to Calgary for a reasonable price.  Jim, through his summer
geology fieldwork, had connections with a helicopter service and had
booked a chopper flight out of Revelstoke.   I had mountaineering and
alpine trekking gear on reserve at the University of Calgary for my use
in the backcountry.  I felt very excited about our trip.

We would not have a chopper lift out to get us back to Revelstoke.  I
wasn't worried about that - Jim has a lot of backcountry experience.
The skiing part I could certainly handle.  But I also knew it would take
considerable physical effort to be able to return through very rugged
mountainous areas. For six days we will not see another human being.
The only sounds will be ours and those produced by nature, save possibly
a far off jet headed for Anchorage, Calgary or Vancouver.  I expected to
do a lot of climbing and skiing, as trips like this with my brother Jim
are known among my siblings and friends for being demanding.
Physically, I felt prepared, even though I had spent the last several
weeks primarily on a computer, writing papers for school.  Fortunately,
over the last eight months, I had aggressively maintained my low back
strengthening routine that allowed me to ski again this past winter.  I
had not skied in virtually all of 1998.

Day 1 - Monday, May 17th
This morning in Revelstoke, it is far from sunny, but an interspersed
low overcast is lifting.  The drizzle that started while we drove in
from Calgary last night has stopped, but there are cloudy conditions
higher up.  Our base camp will be around 6700' in elevation, or about a
vertical mile above town.  I hope it is drier up there.

I had met Matt Callaghan, our chopper pilot today, two summers ago while
I was doing two weeks of fieldwork with Jim.  Though he wasn't our pilot
then, I remembered that Matt barely looked old enough to vote.  Today,
at the helipad he hardly looks older, and we talk a bit.  He tells us
about the record snowfall that the Selkirks and Monashees had received
over the winter.  After I ask, he tells me that learned to fly at 17 and
never looked back.  Amused, I think to myself, how far back?  He also
tells us how much he likes the area where we are headed.  "Nobody goes
up there," was his final comment.

After a short safety talk on chopper procedures by Matt, we lift off.
Because of the clouds above during our climb upward, I keep looking
below for snow between the trees at lower elevations.  Where is it?
What happened to the record winter?  Suddenly, out of the clouds loom
completely snow covered peaks, shockingly bright, with several thousand
feet of terrain above tree line.  We are above the lower clouds.  Matt
flies two low dips to take a look for a suitable landing zone.  He sets
the chopper down close to what the map shows to be one of three small
lakes, in the long shadow of Ghost Peak.

With the chopper blades running, I jump into the snow and rather quickly
unload our packs and ancillary gear.  Jim unloads the skis.  We give
Matt the thumbs up, and he lifts off again.  In under a half minute, the
sound of his chopper evaporates.  Instantly, it feels as if we are in a
winter wonderland.  Everything around is under snow.  Only groups of
tall trees and sheer rock faces remain exposed.  It is very peaceful and
beautiful.

The first thing Jim wants to do is find a water source for our camp.
While I arrange the gear for shuttling to an area that will not be too
exposed to wind, Jim heads toward a hollow or "low" area, in snow depth,
that he had spotted from the chopper.  There he expects to find running
water under the snow that feeds the closest lake.  After I arrive, I see
that Jim has dug down through two feet of snow.  I give him my avalanche
probe to poke through more snow, only to hit ice.  The probe is over
nine feet in length - which means at least 11 feet of snow!  This is at
the very low point in the snowpack in the area.  It is an easy decision
to use the cookstove to melt snow rather than dig for water.

Next, we play a game of hide-and-seek.  Jim buries his avalanche
transceiver in the snow at different locations around our proposed camp
site.  I do pretty well, finding it all three times.  But I quickly
wonder if it is fast enough to actually save someone, as I did not keep
track of time.  Jim mumbles something about how many minutes a person
can expect to survive buried under tons of snow.  I don't listen too
closely, as I certainly know those numbers myself, having had friends of
friends get caught and die in slides.  I try not to think about it - if
it happens out here, I will just have to keep calm and do my best.
There certainly won't be anyone else around to help.  The unbearable
thought of trying to ski out alone flashes through me.  I expect I
wouldn't be able to do it.

With the weather reasonably clear at 11 am, we ski before digging out
sites for our tent and "kitchen" area.  We choose to climb, with our
trekking skins on our ski bottoms, a 700' vertical shot that starts not
more than a couple hundred yards from where we will set up our camp.
Jim is quite comfortable with his trekking gear, as he has been a
telemark skier for years.  I am not. Halfway up, not being an expert on
skins and not having much "free heel" experience, I remove a ski to get
more maneuverability in a tricky, steep section.  It is a big mistake -
I nearly sink in to my hips.  It takes me several minutes just to dig
out and get my ski back in position.

After the run, we talk about the snow.  Jim's not real happy and I can't
really blame him.  The top layer is new and hasn't been "cooked" by the
sun into firmer "corn" snow, the preferred spring and summer snow skiing
conditions.  "Corn" snow forms from sunny days and cool nights.
Basically, the snow here is tricky and wet to ski, though we don't think
it is too dangerous.  I'm certainly not complaining - I've got some
great skis and I love to ski anything.  Further, I'm thinking, I skied
in Vermont this past winter.  My only problem on the run was when a
vertigo-like situation occurred on a flatter section before the very
steepest part.  With no trees around for contrast, being well above tree
line, I had a "flat" light situation and couldn't see anything at all in
front of me clearly.  The horizon sort of disappeared.  I made a couple
moderately fast turns just by feel.  It is a scary feeling.  In this
snow, one can't simply "throw" their skis sideways and stop.  In doing
that, a tumbling injury of some sort would almost be a certainty.

We go lower, to see if the sun, which partially peeks through the
clouds, has worked its magic somewhere else.  Perhaps more southerly
facing terrain will be the answer.  At one point, near some open trees,
I lose sight of Jim and head into a moderately steep, but short, open
chute.  On my second turn, the snow slowly starts to slide.  It's going
slow enough that I can turn out of it.  I do so, but break through the
crust of a lower layer of snow, near a tree well.

Jim and I talk about how the snow near trees is extremely tricky to ski.
As the trees have absorbed more heat from the sun in previous weeks, the
snow surrounding them has become warmer and softer periodically.  This
has meant more melting and more water in the snow when it has refrozen
at night.  Hence, below the top new layer of snow is a lower layer of
refrozen breakable crust surrounding trees.  This is not an enviable
situation, because if it begins to snow a lot, skiing will be virtually
impossible here if we can't be near trees.  With greatly reduced
visibility, we need the contrast that trees provide in order to see
terrain changes.

We hike and ski for a couple more hours and then head back to the camp
site to start digging our tent "platform."  That night, an odd feeling
occurs to me.  It is one I've only gotten while skiing in the west.  It
is that of having a sunburn from a day of skiing as snow begins to fall.
This time the burn is on my hands and neck, as I didn't use gloves while
climbing.  Interestingly, the sun was hardly out and I used spf 45
lotion.  Obviously, I'm feeling the effects of radiation from the sun
and snow.  The new snow crystals make the reflection even more intense.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
SkiVt-L is brought to you by the University of Vermont.

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