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SKIVT-L  June 1999, Week 1

SKIVT-L June 1999, Week 1

Subject:

Selkirks 5/17 to 5/21 (Part three)

From:

"John Crowley, Jr." <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Vermont Skiing Discussion and Snow Reports <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:20:36 -0400

Content-Type:

TEXT/PLAIN

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

TEXT/PLAIN (193 lines)


Day 4 - May 20
I wake up at about 5 am.  It is not dark, as it has been light since
probably 330 am.  Jim says something about it not being sunny outside.
In fact, it looks like it is going to start snowing again.  The clear
sky of last night has disappeared.  We know that bad weather will hamper
our travel time and we decide to break camp.  Rather than waiting until
tomorrow or even Saturday, which we might have done had the weather been
good and our planned route was available, we are making a safe choice by
starting our travels now.  No 4 R's today.

This will be a real physical test for me.  I spent all of last year
being relatively physically inactive because of lower back problems.  My
pack weighs in at around 60 pounds.  I've not done a lot of backcountry
trekking with a heavy pack like this, though I'm relatively comfortable
with the idea of making descents with it.  I once was a national level
alpine racer for my age.  My "backcountry" experience is limited to just
steep day climbs and skiing near Lake Tahoe, in Utah's Wasatch Mountains
or in Colorado, near Crested Butte or in Summit County.  Those places
had great terrain, but here, because of many factors, there will be an
inordinate amount of tough climbing and some very difficult skiing.  Our
goal is to make it beyond the tricky shelf descent we discovered
yesterday, which with these packs is many hours away.  After breaking
down the campsite, we start moving just before 7 am.

Under two hours later, the most difficult climb is slowing me
considerably.   It is very steep and the snow is soft on top, with a
breakable crust and no supporting layer below it.  The truly crappy snow
near some tree wells does not make things easier, either.  I'm going
nowhere fast when Jim, frustrated, turns around to help me.  He has
already left his 70 plus pound pack at the top of this climb.

At the top we rest.  He tells me about dropping his water bottle cap
several minutes earlier and how it was headed for a long slide down a
pitch after he dropped it.  He should have lost it, but somehow the cap
caught on a small ledge and he was able to set his 2 liter bottle down,
scramble lower, and retrieve the cap.  I take this as a sign of good
luck.

An hour later, while slowly making my way up a moderate climb I begin to
fully realize the level of concentration and effort that I'm making.
I'm beginning to enjoy the goal-setting aspect of all this: when to stop
and rest, and where.  How much food to eat, water to drink.  What path
to take.  Simple things, really, but they are critical.  I have to
purposefully follow our tracks from yesterday near the ridge and near
the stubby trees through the snowdrifts and swells.   If there's
wandering in the "flat" light, I could head right off a massive cornice,
or possibly cause it to break into a crashing, almost certainly killer
slab.

Finally, I begin to notice that today has the best weather yet.  A few
snow squalls, of course, but a lot of sun, too.  Thankfully, it is not a
scorcher because of a light breeze.  While moving on the ridge to the
north, I take a look around and soak in the beauty.  I have to guess it
almost feels like a religious experience (though I'm not sure I've ever
had one before now.  Well, except maybe when I went skydiving the first
time.)  Mt. Cartier and its closest ridges are striking.  The Ghost is
peaking through a high mist behind us.  To the east, big white peaks as
far as I can see.  The glaciers high up on the Monashees are clearly
visible today.  And finally, the peak of Mt. Mc Kenzie can be seen.

We reach the T ridgeline just before noon and quickly eat a snack.  The
snow is starting to get softer and very heavy from all the sun.  I start
my descent slowly toward the shelf area, thinking that if it doesn't go
well, some orthopedic doc in Burlington may have his newest ACL patient
when we get out of the forest at the bottom of Mt. Mc Kenzie.  Jim jokes
that if we had a cell phone, we could probably make a call right now and
set up a time for next week.

Jim decides that his pack is too heavy and big for him to make the
descent below the shelf in one trip.  He takes half of his gear out at
the top and then starts traversing off the shelf onto the steep face.
We'll have to make a couple of very tough turns to avoid rock and cliff
sections, and Jim does it well.  After he's done, I go.  I decide that
since I'm on alpine gear (Jim is on telemark gear), and my pack is
lighter, this will not be as difficult for me, relatively.  I go with my
whole pack.  The snow is grippy, wet, thick and very tricky to ski well.
I make it to where Jim has stopped below by crossing an old avalanche
debris field.  Without question, it is some of the most difficult skiing
I have ever done.

I look above to where we've stopped. Some 75 feet upslope there are
newer looking slide debris piles, similar to what we saw last night with
the late western sun.  Their origination point high above is just
starting to get some sun.  It will probably be several more hours before
new slides could begin, but I'm not taking any chances.  While Jim
prepares to head back up to the shelf to get the rest of his gear, I
keep my skis on in case I've got to move fast.  Each time I've taken my
skis off on this trip, I've immediately sunk into the snow to about my
knees, if not higher.

Jim starts to head back up and then stops.  "Aren't you going to wish me
luck," he says.  I didn't even really think about it, because if it were
anybody else, I would have done so.  I tell him, " you don't need it - I
have faith, I know you're going to make it."  I say good luck, anyway.
After an uneventful climb, and a few maneuvers while descending, Jim
returns to where I'm standing.  We're both relieved, and talk briefly
about what it might be like if we had to go through there in several
hours.  We probably would have camped high up on the ridge above the
shelf and waited for the next morning.

I don't even look back as we head across to the other side of the small
valley floor.  I'm leading us toward what appears to be a moderate slope
that faces southwest.  We've decided we will traverse this slope in
order to find a "cat track," or snow covered road that we thought we had
spotted yesterday.  We know that a snowcat skiing operation uses a road
in this area in the winter to collect skiers who have descended from
snowcats to the south of Mt. Mc Kenzie.  The valley floor gets wider as
it descends toward the Columbia River, which is still a few miles away
and probably more than 5500' feet below.  The valley floor area is
called a "burn," because there was a forest fire here some 25 years ago.
Now, the area has some small trees growing back.  This kind of terrain
usually makes for fun "tree skiing" in the winter because the small
trees are all spaced widely apart.

After beginning the traverse above the burn area, I suddenly hear loud
popping or cracking sounds.  I look to my right and see long fractures
in the snowpack shooting out in front of me.  It is as if I'm watching
lightning, in slow motion, streak ahead of me.  One goes parallel to my
direction of motion, above me on the slope, and another is headed
perpendicular to where my skis are going, fracturing down the fall line.
I can see the broken snowpack settle, as if it could suddenly start
moving as a whole.  Somehow, I imagine, it grips the layer of snow
below, and doesn't slide.  I consciously blink, for I cannot believe I'm
seeing this.  It happens quickly again as I continue traversing toward a
shallower area, while trying not to make any sudden motions or noises.
Everything happened so fast that I think stopping would be a mistake.
And where is Jim?  I want him to keep moving, too - slabs have formed
and might start to slide at any moment.  As they shoot in front of me, I
end up skiing over two more fractures spaced about 15 yards apart.  My
agility in this awful snow, with 60 pounds on my back, leaves me
absolutely no options.

While still moving away from the open slope toward a small tree band, I
yell (quietly, I hope) to Jim, who is still moving, too.  He is lower
down the slope and probably 20 yards behind me. "Did you see those...?"
He answers affirmatively, and says something about heading down to the
valley floor.  Even though we are now in a flatter area, I still feel as
if I'm walking on thin ice and I make my way slowly downward.

We are out of avalanche danger.  I'm strangely calm, but only briefly do
I think about it before moving once again.  I have to concentrate on the
task at hand.  We had decided earlier to keep going until we get to what
we think is the cat track.  Down on the valley floor, in between the
"new" small trees we make our way.  About 20 minutes later, my legs
screaming, Jim and I rest when we reach what we spotted from high above
a day earlier.  It is a cat track, which should eventually take us
toward an area above the ski area situated at the bottom of Mt. Mc
Kenzie.

We take a short break to eat a little.  Jim is excited, as we have
essentially found our way home.  I'm pretty quiet - thinking about what
might lie ahead.  An hour later we pass through a canyon that has
"rolled-up" snowballs at the bottom the size of SUV's.  These have
cascaded down from an upper slope in previous days.  I can't believe how
big they appear.  An hour later we camp for the night.  Over eight hours
after starting out, I'm very tired.

At night, we talk about the fractures earlier today.  Jim didn't realize
that we were making them happen and that I witnessed their formation.
He thought they were already there.  I figure that explains why he was
more excited than I when we reached the cat track.  I think I was quiet
because I saw how close we might have come to being badly injured, or
killed.  I'm still surprised that it happened on that kind of slope.
Although it certainly wasn't flat, I didn't think it was steep enough -
maybe that's why it didn't start to slide.

Day 5 - May 21
We start out in heavy, wet snowfall.  It was very warm overnight, but
this should be an easy day.  By noon, we are at around 3000' in
elevation and have followed the cat track, also a logging road here, to
a point to where all the snow has melted.  As we change out of our ski
gear, we remark how snow depths of around 8 to 12 feet have gone down to
nothing in the last 2000' of vertical.  With our packs now really heavy,
we make our way on foot to the bottom of Mt. Mc Kenzie.

Once there, Jim and I drop our packs in a bright green grass covered
field.  While he picks up our car from the helipad, I sit on my pack in
the 60 degree sunny weather feeling as if I'm in the tropics.  It feels
as if summer has fully arrived in Revelstoke.  I notice my feet look
like they've been in a bathtub for a week.  My hands and face are pretty
red and sunburned, as well as the outside of my knees from leaving my
ski pants unzipped while climbing.  My back and legs should be very sore
tomorrow.

I am satisfied, but at the same time sad because this trip is over.  I
want to go do it again.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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December 2007, Week 5
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November 2007, Week 5
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October 2007, Week 5
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April 2007, Week 5
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April 2007, Week 1
March 2007, Week 5
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January 2007, Week 1
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January 2006, Week 1
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March 2005, Week 5
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January 2005, Week 3
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October 2004, Week 3
October 2004, Week 2
October 2004, Week 1
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March 2002, Week 3
March 2002, Week 2
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February 2002, Week 3
February 2002, Week 2
February 2002, Week 1
January 2002, Week 5
January 2002, Week 4
January 2002, Week 3
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February 2001, Week 1
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