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Regarding the accident on Hood and some comments about tourons and
inexperienced climber wannabes.....

One of the news reports stated:
"""
Three separate groups of climbers were ascending the 11,240-foot mountain
and were about 800 feet from the summit when the accident occurred about 9
a.m. A climber who was beneath the crevasse used his cell phone to call for
help.

The chain reaction began when two climbers at the front of the pack
slipped, falling into climbers behind them. They all crashed into the next
group of climbers, and everyone tumbled into the crevasse, said Cleve
Joiner, who called for help.
"""



A person on another discussion forum just recently returned from Hood. He
had this to say in one of his posts:

"""
When I was there last week I saw no less than 25 people (as many as 50) on
that same ridge at once. You know what I did? I sat at high camp and waited
for the inexperienced to come down. I saw a team of four tied together with
a piece of spectra** up there. When we asked the how you prussik up such a
rope, they asked me what a prussik* is. I also saw two guys wearing jeans
with duct tape around the cuffs as gaiters.
"""


*prussik: [n.] a specialized knot used for ascending a fixed rope, used in
pairs. [v.] to ascend a rope using prussik knots. On a glacier, it is how
one would ascend the rope after falling into a crevasse (assuming
the  entire party didn't go in). They are also used to set up a mechanical
advantage pulley system to haul someone out of a crevasse. Not knowing a
basic self rescue knot/technique on a glacier is akin to someone at the top
of Dodge's Drop not knowing what a hop or jump turn is.

**spectra: [proper n.] a type of webbing made from a nylon like material
similar to kevlar. Although extremely strong and cut resistant, it is
notoriously slippery and known for not holding knots.

-Marc


www.mchrusch.com
Direct link to my weblog page:
http://home.earthlink.net/~mchrusch/blog/blogger.html

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