Some cool trıs lately, so I thought Iıd add mine for today...

This weekıs surf forecast was all over the place, with Tuesday, at least as
of a few days ago, calling for some absolutely super conditions. I planned
on developing a cough.

But things shifted around this morning and I had to end up getting sick very
quickly today.

Made it to the beach by 3. Air and sea temp both about 41. Windy. Waves
coming in from the NE, which isnıt good, cause they tend to push you into
the jetty, especially as youıre paddling out. Neither of my buddies wanted
to get in their boats.

But thatıs one thing about Jersey Shore ocean surfing. Thereıs not a lot of
hidden danger. No rocks. No trees. And the current will eventually push you
back in. So while Nate watched, I paddled into the rip current along the
jetty and fought my way out.

Iım telling you, the feeling of being back in the boat after more than 2
weeks, it was great. Pulling on the paddle, leaning into the dips and rolls,
shifting my hips to keep a quiet upper body. It felt so effing great.

The biggest waves were head high. And unfortunately, closing out
unpredictably, which means youıre riding along on the smooth green water
then bam, the white just crashes over you, leaving you with nothing to do
except ride straight in in front of the foam.

And thatıs what happened. First ride was a style zero, but a new first for
beginner me anyway. I took off late, meaning the wave was already steeply
pitched and starting to break before I got on. And a second later, it was
pouring down from over my head, in front of my eyes. Tubed, dude.

Only, when the cool surrfers are in the tube, theyıre travelling along
parallel to the beach, running for the opening. I was perpendicular to the
beach, with nowhere really to turn. I leaned back hard, to keep the bow from
diving under, and shot out, through the cascading curtain of white, out in
front of the wave‹man, that was neat!--where I was able to catch my
bearings, get my balance, and ride her in, buffeted by the cross-wise
reflecting waves off the jetty.

The work of getting out, the just-barely sense of control on the way in, the
nippy temps that made me not too interested in rolling... Only got two,
count Œem, two rides all day, and by the end of those felt Iıd be pushing my
luck to do a third. But those two left a buzz I hadnıt felt in way too long.


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