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I have found that air movement is best for drying. IE fans or dehumidifiers. Seems like they are standard tools for the fast track contractor these days. Ben Graham On 12/11/08 8:23 PM, "Tim Yandow" <[log in to unmask]> wrote: > Can someone explain to me how a Salamander can exacerbate moisture issues > during dry out? Is this a problem with dense pack as well? What would be a > better way to provide heat for drywall and painting after insulation > installation than space heaters? > Tim Yandow > > >> The borates seemed to work fine in the cellulose - there was no >> mold in the it. Moisture had condensed on the back of the >> Typar. Too much moisture in the application, extra moisture >> introduced by space heaters, interior walls left open too long >> meaning to help it dry, winter conditions promoting >> condensation, Typar creating issues? Any or all are options, >> but no one seems to be able to pinpoint one cause or whether it >> was a combination of all. NuWool was the brand and I understand >> it is the good stuff. The installation installer has since sold >> his business and vanished. The builder was one of the best in >> the business. Walls were left open for several months (now one >> reputable local installer is saying to close the walls in >> within a week). Salamanders were used because no one said not >> to. Probably a combination of a number of things except poor >> construction. Lots of people chipped in to help fix the >> problem, but it still cost the builder. Fortunately the >> homeowner was understanding, but until it is established >> exactly why it happened it is an experiment I don't intend to >> repeat. >> >> Bill >> >> Robert Riversong wrote: --- On Thu, >> 12/11/08, William C Badger AIA wrote: Interesting >> material. Has anyone in the group tried it and does anyone locally >> install it? We tried damp applied cellulose in a new house a couple of >> years ago with disastrous results. Black mold grew on the outside of the >> plywood sheathing and the back side of the Typar house wrap. The siding >> had to be stripped off and things dried out. A series of unusual >> circumstances that created a perfect storm? >> The mold on your plywood sheathing may have been encouraged by poor >> installation practice or too quick a close-in of the walls, but likely >> had other contributing factors. Kiln-dried lumber is >> milled at 19% moisture content by weight and it takes a new house a full >> year to completely dry to a stable level. Modern cellulose installation >> techniques require very little added water, and the walls should always >> be left open from 1 to 3 days following application. >> Running salamander-type temporary construction heaters only puts more >> moisture into the indoor environment. Cellulose has been successfully >> installed in northern climates without a vapor barrier (as long as there >> is good air sealing), and applying a plastic vapor barrier and closing in >> the wall before dry-out will almost certainly create a mold problem. >> The brand of cellulose, also, makes a big difference. Only >> those, like National Fiber, who use EPA-certified fungicides can >> guarantee no mold problems. If wall plate penetrations >> in the top and bottom plates are not properly sealed, this could create a >> significant source of moisture in the wall cavities. My >> guess is that you had a "perfect storm" caused perhaps by poor quality >> materials, poor installation technique, and inappropriate construction >> practices. Don't blame the cellulose - there is no better insulation on >> the market. Those who give up freedom for safety, deserve neither. Benjamin Franklin __________________________________________________________ Ben Graham www.naturaldesignbuild.us Natural building/design services/workshops/consulting Integrating Culture and Nature 802.454.1167