Unless I'm mistaken, the wave form produces a suction on the water in front of it, effectively lifting the surfboard onto the wave face as the water is sucked upward, so you are continuously falling through the air while being lifted by the water.  I'm sure somebody with a better fundamental understanding of physics could explain this better, but that's what it feels like.
 
- Patrick


From: telenaut <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask]
Sent: Mon, September 20, 2010 12:52:03 PM
Subject: Re: [SKIVT-L] Skiers are wimps!

Denis Bogan wrote on 9/20/10 12:29 PM:

Mr. parallel to the beach appeared to go way faster than could be explained by the acceleration of gravity, and his total vertical drop on a ride of 100 yards was no more than a few feet.  


Falling without falling. Isn’t that amazing?

Is it the same physics as allow a tacking sailboat to travel faster than the wind speed? TEO? Nile?
Or does the added horizontal force of the wave pushing towards the beach somehow enter into it? (I suspect not.)

--an


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