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At 12:01 PM 4/16/2012, Denis Bogan wrote:

>It is called simply, "The Alps" and was on HDNET an hour ago. It's 
>about a guy who climbed the north face of the Eiger via a route 
>where his father died 40 years ago. A Swiss made film, honest and 
>non sensational. It is absolutely riveting.

That would be John Harlin Jr repeating the Eiger Direct route that 
his dad John Harlin Sr. died on when the fixed rope he was ascending 
was cut from rubbing over a sharp edge. Remarkably similar to the 
tragic Tangerine Trip incident on El Cap in the mid-70's.

I never met his father, but John Jr. is one of the nicest, most 
humble high-end climbers I've ever met. We did a few routes together 
when he was visiting the Gunks BITD as research for the Northeast 
edition of his series of US guidebooks.

Eiger with two of the major routes diagrammed:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2-mlv-xV5F0/TMAf9ZnVEmI/AAAAAAAAEXI/mda1ZBVXsBg/s1600/photo-708435.PNG

Interestingly, the Direct was free climbed in 2010. It goes at M8-/5.11+/5.12 R
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/another_free_line_on_north_face_of_eiger/


-m1 

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