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Awesome. Certainly missed your reports. Keep them coming.


On Sun, Nov 4, 2018 at 8:22 AM Paul Terwilliger <[log in to unmask]> wrote:

> He's back!  Please stick around.
>
> PaulT
>
>
> On Sun, 4 Nov 2018 01:53:27 -0400, WM wrote:
>
> >Futurerama
> >Palos Verdes, California
> >18/11/3
> >
> >Today's surf session was the first in weeks. Work and other commitments
> kept me out of the water going on a month- unusual in that one of the
> unique aspects of Southern California living is year round surfing.
> >It was approaching low tide , leaving about a foot of water on the reef
> which lay between where I was sitting in the lineup and the inside lagoon.
> The waves coming into the cove came out of deep water and then jacked up
> and unloaded onto the reef with a sound like a freight train grinding
> across boulders- pretty unnerving really. And what they don't tell you when
> you start surfing is that when you are paddling to catch a wave the wave is
> coming up from behind you... so your first real impression of a big wave is
> usually auditory.
> >I'd been surfing the cove for a few years now though and I knew more or
> less where to be on a day with this particular swell direction. So I wasn't
> as frightened as I used to be about getting caught inside when a big set
> came and being smashed on the rocks.
> >I was sitting right on the peak, 74 degrees and sunny out with no wind. I
> am looking back toward shore when I notice down the line that the couple
> guys out with me are sprint paddling towards the horizon- which is dark
> with a big set.
> >I was in the zone though and turned to paddle into it.
> >Really big Pacific Ocean wave sets are unlike anything I'd experienced in
> my life until I was out staring them down. The way mountains of water
> seemingly grew magically out of nothingness- sucking water off the reef or
> shoreline in front of them- and with an inevitable momentum that reinforces
> your own irrelevance.
> >The speed is also surprising. Taking off on a big one feels like going
> zero to sixty in a Ferrari- while going straight downhill as a vortexing
> wall of water is trying to fall on top of you.
> >This time I took off on the first wave as it seemed the biggest. I was in
> the right spot and with a few big strokes it picked me up as I jumped up
> and surfed over the ledge- the green face below was about 8 feet high
> (which if you don't think is high imagine standing on top of the wall in
> whatever room you are in and jumping down while standing on a moving
> surfboard).  There was so much water rushing up the wave face and being
> pulled off the reef that the surface of the wave became smooth and
> transparent- highlighting the reef just inches below the surface.
> >At the bottom I made my best bottom turn ever and pumped up the wave
> face. It stretched out 50 yards long in front of me feathering slightly
> just from the shear size and speed of the wave, glittering with sunlight. I
> rocketed along pumping medium radius turns just ahead of the foaming
> maelstrom behind me.
> >Near the inside lagoon the wave stood up just a bit more and pitched over
> as it hit a last shallow section. Ahead of me the wall of water spiraled in
> on itself. Only a few seconds had elapsed since paddling to catch this
> wave, but at this point time seemed to slow to a crawl. This mountain of
> water curled into itself- I let my trailing hand gently brush the face of
> the water as I pointed the board toward what I thought was the future.
> >
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