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November 2007


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john abbott <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
UVM Conservation Biology Discussion Group <[log in to unmask]>
Thu, 1 Nov 2007 16:28:23 -0400
text/plain (6 kB) multipart/related (6 kB) , text/html (18 kB) , FredBeckey.jpg (27 kB)
hello all-
	we are pleased to announce that climbing legend Fred Beckey will be  
making a rare east Coast appearance here at UVM next Tuesday November  
6th, at the Campus Center Theater at 8pm. Tickets will be available  
at the door $5 for public and $3 for students...sponsored by the UVM  
Climbing Club and UVM Outing Club...
	for those in the climbing community, Fred's accomplishments need no  
introduction...he is quite simply the most prolific climber and 1st  
ascensionist in North American climbing history. to go into detail  
about fred's contributions to modern climbing would be akin to trying  
to capture the elvis' influence on modern music. fred is a gem of  
climbing history and one of the golden lions of his era. see more  
biographical info below.
	if you haven't seen fred before, you have to see him to believe a  
spirit like this walks (climbs) the planet!:) look forward to seeing  
you there!

John Abbott						    		phone 	656.2060
Asst. Director of Student Life			    	e-mail	[log in to unmask]
Outdoor Programs						fax		656.7731

Dept. of Student Life
University of Vermont
520 Main St.
310 Dudley Davis Student Center
Burlington, VT 05405


"Beckey," as he is known to his climbing companions, was born in  
D├╝sseldorf, Germany, and his family emigrated to the United States  
when he was three, ending up in Seattle, Washington. He started  
climbing in the Cascades as a teenager, learning the basic concepts  
from The Mountaineers but quickly going on to harder climbs.

He attended the University of Washington and received a degree in  
business administration. He worked as a delivery truck driver, which  
left him time for climbing.

Unlike Jim Whittaker, a fellow Seattleite and the first American to  
reach the top of Mount Everest in 1963, Beckey shied away from the  
large team efforts, preferring smaller alpine-style undertakings.  
Beckey seemed a likely choice as a member for the 1963 Everest trip,  
but he was not chosen. (He had been to Everest in 1955 with the  
International Himalayan Expedition).

In the late 1940s, he asked the Mountaineers of Seattle to publish  
his first climbing guidebook for the local peaks. They turned him  
down, and the American Alpine Club agreed to print a few thousand  
copies for a flat fee.

In-between climbs, he wrote several books, most significantly the  
Cascade Alpine Guide, the 3-volume definitive description of the  
mountains from the Columbia River to the Canadian border (and the  
North Cascades, which extend into Canada), now in its third revision,  
published by The Mountaineers.

In 2003, his 563-page book on the history of the region "Range of  
Glaciers," was published by the Oregon Historical Society Press.  
According to a reviewer, he did much of the research for the volume  
in Washington, D.C., at the Library of Congress and the National  
Archives, scouring files of the Defense Department, State Department,  
U.S. Geological Survey and other agencies. Beckey also perused the  
Canadian archives in Ottawa; Hudson's Bay Co. archives in Winnipeg;  
British Columbia archives in Victoria; records of the Northwest  
Boundary Survey at Yale University; and records of the Northern  
Pacific and Great Northern railroads in Minneapolis.

As of 2007, he continues to climb all over the world at age 80...

Mt. Beckey, named for Fred Beckey, is located in the Alaskan Range at  
North 62 degrees, 52 minutes, West 152 degrees, 15 minutes.

  First ascents

Some of his first ascents:

     * Forbidden Peak, Cascade Range - 1940, with brother Helmy and  
Lloyd Anderson
     * Devils Thumb, Alaska - 1946[3]
     * Mount Hood's Yocum Ridge
     * North Peak, Liberty Bell - 1947
     * North Buttress, Mount Shuksan - 1947
     * Mount Hunter (Alaska) - 1954, with Heinrich Harrer and Henry  
     * Mount Deborah - 1954, with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm
     * North Face of Mount Edith Cavell, Canada - 1961, with Yvon  
     * Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse, British Columbia, Canada 1963
     * Mount Beckey, Cathedral Mountains, Alaska, USA - 1996, with  
John Middendorf and Calvin Hebert

Other notable feats:

     * Second ascent Mount Waddington, British Columbia - 1942
     * Triple ascent of Mount McKinley, Mount Deborah, and Mount  
Hunter - 1954

[edit] Quotation

"Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most  
imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain  
investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness. He was noted as "one of  
America's most colorful and eccentric mountaineers," and is  
unofficially recognized as the all-time world-record holder for the  
number of first ascents credited to one man. In addition to being the  
author of the Cascade Alpine Guide series, Beckey is also the author  
of Mountains of North America, The Range of Glaciers: Exploration and  
Survey of the North Cascades, and a personal narrative, Challenge of  
the North Cascades." --Mountaineers Books

[edit] Books

     * Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern  
Cascade Range (Oregon Historical Society, 2003 ISBN 0-87595-243-7)
     * Cascade Alpine Guide (3 vols.) (Mountaineers Books, 1973-2003)
           o Columbia River to Stevens Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2000, ISBN  
           o Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2003, ISBN  
           o Rainy Pass to Fraser River (1981, 2nd ed. 1995, ISBN  
     * Challenge of the North Cascades (1969, 2nd ed. 1996, ISBN  
     * Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America (Mountaineers Books  
1993, paper 1999, ISBN 0-89886-646-4)
     * The Bugaboos: An Alpine History (1987)
     * Mountains of North America (1986)
     * Mountains of North America (Sierra Club, 1982)
     * Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide (Mountaineers Books,  
     * Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas (Mountaineers Books,  
     * Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of  
Washington (American Alpine Club, 1949, revised edition 1953)

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new lands but  
seeing with new eyes."
																	- Marcel Proust