I have been enjoying these updates on Bud and kathy's trip and thought you
might also.  Let me know if you do not want to receive them.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Davidow--Haas" <[log in to unmask]>
To: <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 2:05 PM
Subject: Part 5 Gloucester MA to West Caldwell NJ

Part 5   Gloucester MA to West Caldwell NJ
Day 32 Aug. 24 Gloucester to Rockport to Gloucester 35
Day 33 Aug. 25 Gloucester to Provincetown 5 m
Day 34 Aug. 26 Provincetown 8m
Day 35 Aug. 27 Provincetown to Eastham 35m
Day 36 Aug. 28 Eastham to Martha's Vineyard 57m
Day 38 Aug. 29 Martha's Vineyard 32m
Day 39 Aug. 30 Martha's Vineyard to Westport, RI 32m
Day 40 Aug 31 Westport to Jamestown 37m
Day 41 Sept. 1 Jamestown to Old Mystic CT 52m
Day 42 Sept. 2 Old Mystic to West Caldwell NJ 32m
Total Mileage 1513m

Since we had decided to stay in Gloucester to wait for
the boat to Provincetown on Friday (a great way for VT
folks to get to the Cape-Fri,Sat,Mon), we had two days
to explore the Cape Ann Peninsula. We found the
Sicilia Café the first day and went there the next two
mornings. With both Italian owners and patrons,
Italian was the primary language. After our first
espresso we were walking down the street with our
bikes when a man came out of the local bookstore to
ask us if we were bike tourists. Upon telling him yes,
he introduced himself as Ben and said that he and his
wife had just finished a cross country bike trip and
would love to talk with us, so why not come to his
house for dinner the next night. We agreed. The next
day was beautiful and sunny so we rode around the
peninsula, going in and out of coves, to lighthouses,
and following the beach roads into Rockport. The place
feels like an island and we both enjoyed being there.
We called Ben and got directions to his house. We
spent the evening swapping stories and laughing. Would
you get your hair cut in North Dakota at a place named
Curl up and Die? Going across the county was their
first really long tour. Ben 65, and Carol 51, stayed
in hostels and camped most of the way. We found that
we had so much in common that by the time we left, we
felt like we had been friends for years.

We left the next morning for the boat ride to
Provincetown, after stopping at the Sicilia for our
third espresso, Italian cookies and a final dose of
Italian. The weather was beautiful and we arrived in
Provincetown with enough time to set up our tent and
go to the beach. We spent most of the next day at Race
Point Beach, which feels like the end of the earth.
The National Seashore at the tip of the cape is sand
dunes and sea grasses and there are great bike trails
winding through the whole area. We loved the
campground with its had big shaded sites separate from
the RV's. Everyone in Provincetown rides  a bike and
we appreciated being in such a bike centric
environment. Leaving the campground the next day a
fellow camper stopped us to talk about our trip. As he
was from NH and did a lot of cycle touring, we spent
some time sharing bikes and adventures. We have
discovered that our loaded bikes are conversation
magnets. People stop us on the street and ask us where
we're from or where we're going, and then proceed to
tell us about themselves. We get smiles from everyone
and comments like, "I guess you're out for more than a
day ride."  Or just a "Wow."

We left Provincetown on an old Boston Youth Hostel
route and are grateful for their work. We rode up and
down hills and along roads away from the highway. At
Wellfleet we picked up the paved Cape Cod Rail Trail
and rode that all the way to the Eastham Hostel just
outside Orleans. The Rail Trail runs from mid cape to
Wellfleet and we were impressed with the number of
riders of all ages and sizes. At the hostel we met
people of all ages and nationalities. We talked with a
man from NJ who was house hunting from the hostel, a
Boston woman who had worked in both Ghana and Kosovo,
and a couple from England who had been counselors at a
camp and now were beginning their world tour.

The next day we veered off the Rail Trail to see
Chatham and then on to catch the Hyannis. Ferry to
Martha's Vineyard. Although we had a map of good bike
roads on the Cape we managed to get on some high
traffic roads. There are a lot of cars on Cape Cod! We
arrived in Martha's Vineyard at 7:30, just as the sun
was setting and got directions to the hostel. What we
thought might take 20 minutes turned out to be more
like 90. We started out on the road and as it got
darker we luckily discovered the paved bike trail
beside the road. With our lights we could see a few
feet in front of us, but the trail was along a nature
preserve and there were no lights from the road or
houses. Bud said it was the most fun he'd had in
years! We spent the next day at the Vineyard riding
out to Aquinnah, renamed from Gay Head in 1997. Many
year-round residents of Aquinnah are descendants of
the Wampanoags. The clay cliffs at Aquinnah are quite
colorful, as are the clothing optional sunbathers
below them. The roads at the west end of Martha's
Vineyard are lovely. There are trees overhanging the
road for shade and the countryside is rural. Alongside
big houses are farms and quiet places. The hostel in
Martha's Vineyard (the first in the USA specifically
built as a hostel) was fun. We lighted the large
outdoor shower room with candles. Later we had an
enjoyable evening talking with Serge from Spain (who
had come to New England because he had a dream a few
years ago of walking down the street in Boston with
his backpack), a Cuban born woman who had been sent to
NYC at the age of 7 in 1959, and a woman from Japan
who was studying English in Boston.

We took the ferry to New Bedford and spent the next 4
days riding through the coastal areas of
Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. Rhode
Island was particularly nice, with quiet country roads
and farms. Campground dinners came from farm stands
where you pick up the vegetables and leave money in a
box. We met an old fisherman (a few years older than
Bud) at breakfast one morning who told us that he had
been hit by lightning twice within ten minutes and he
demonstrated for us just what his body did when he was

In order to be with family in New Jersey by Labor Day
we took the ferry from New London to Orient Point on
Long Island, rode the LIRR into Penn Station and
bounced our bikes down two flights of stairs to the
train out to S. Orange. We've spent the last week at
Bud's brother's house in NJ and plan to be back on our
bikes heading toward Florida by the weekend.

Kathy and Bud

Bud and Kathy's logs can be found at:

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